Jersey’s Occupation Relics

Jersey WW2

Jersey’s history is written across the island, from a Neolithic passage grave (of which, more another day) to magnificent Medieval and Tudor castles. A more recent episode in Jersey’s history is also etched on the landscape; during World War 2, the Channel Islands were occupied by the German army.

Jersey

This one’s now a holiday rental

The islands were occupied on 1st July 1940 and were liberated more than five years later, on 9th July 1945. During the occupation, extensive defences were built all over Jersey, even on top of the Tudor Elizabeth Castle.

German pillbox on top of tudor castle

An incongruous site

Numerous pillboxes, batteries and other defences were constructed, using slave labour from the defeated peoples of Europe. At La Hougue Bie, a moving display tells their story. The defences included three enormous observation towers.

WW2 tower Jersey

Does this remind you of the cylons in original Battlestar Galactica, or is that just me?

Although, in the immediate aftermath of the conflict, the impulse of the islanders was to bury the signs of occupation, more recently this part of the island’s history is being explored and preserved. Some sites are open, manned by volunteers, on certain days and the Jersey War Tunnels museum is always open and offers an informative, moving yet balanced account of the war years.

St.Ouen's Beach, Jersey

Remains of WW2 beach defences

Most of the pillboxes and batteries remain derelict, however, stark reminders of this difficult and tragic time.

WW2 tower, Jersey

Creepily atmospheric in fog

Needless to say, they also provide an opportunity to try some moody, grainy photography, with the assistance of willing teenage son in black hoody.

Derelict war tunnel, Jersey

Someone has been decorating

Some of the derelict structures have been used, although all signs of habitation seemed pretty old.

graffiti in war tunnel

What does this mean?

Teenager in derelict war tunnel

Moodiness comes with the territory

More about Jersey tomorrow.

Serenity and space

Jersey

If you have read my blog during the last few weeks, you will already know that I have fallen in love with Jersey, one of the Channel Islands. One of the things I enjoy most there is the feeling of space and the peacefulness that brings after the rush and bustle of crowded Surrey. That is what I wanted to convey in this shot.

I realise that of late this blog has tended towards the image-a-day style, which is not what I originally intended. I am going to try to get back to including longer, themed posts now that the nights are drawing in. Tomorrow, I will write more about my new favourite island.

La Corbière, October

lighthouse, Jersey

We’re back from another trip to Jersey.  Here’s La Corbière in rather different conditions from my August sunset shots.  I dragged my poor family down to the lighthouse every evening this week and the sky remained doggedly grey until yesterday when we were supposed to be going to the airport for our flight home.  A small detour was begged and granted.  I only had ten minutes, but made the most of them.

La Corbière again

lighthouse, JerseyAnother photograph from my evening shoot on Jersey, in the Channel Islands, in August.  La Corbière (in JèrriaisLa Corbiéthe), is a lighthouse on Jersey’s SouthWestern tip.  We are going back there soon and I am hoping for some rougher seas for a different type of shot.

Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns

Jersey, Channel Islands

                            … For I have learned
To look on nature, not as in the hour
Of thoughtless youth; but hearing oftentimes
The still, sad music of humanity,
Nor harsh nor grating, though of ample power
To chasten and subdue. And I have felt
A presence that disturbs me with the joy
Of elevated thoughts; a sense sublime
Of something far more deeply interfused,
Whose dwelling is the light of setting suns,
And the round ocean and the living air,
And the blue sky, and in the mind of man;
A motion and a spirit, that impels
All thinking things, all objects of all thought,
And rolls through all things…

William Wordsworth, ‘Lines composed a few miles above Tintern Abbey’ (1798), ll.88-102

Grosnez castle

castle ruins, Jersey

Our visit to Jersey gave me an opportunity to add to my castle series.  Grosnez Castle was built in the 14th century.  Little remains of the castle but it makes a very atmospheric ruin, perched atop the headland at the Northwest corner of the island.

Ruined arch of Grosnez Castle

‘Grosnez’ comes from the old Norse, grar nes, meaning ‘grey headland’, rather than the French for ‘big nose’.  According to an interpretation board at the site, the castle was probably built in around 1330.  It was taken by the French in 1373 and 1381 and was likely demolished during or shortly after the French occupation of 1461-8.

Jersey coastline

The castle certainly has a commanding view of the Jersey coast.  Just along the headland stands another martial construction taking advantage of those views, a German WW2 range-finder tower, part of Hitler’s ‘Atlantic Wall’.

Tower among heather on cliff, Jersey

It is a strangely forbidding construction, a stark contrast to the tapestry of heather and wildflowers at its base. The two structures together are a reminder of Jersey’s history of occupation, straddling some of her most beautiful landscape.

WW2 observation tower seen from Grosnez Castle, Jersey.